<%@LANGUAGE="VBSCRIPT" CODEPAGE="1252"%> Stairs Carskaddon Essay Scholarship
 Stairs Carskaddon Essay Scholarship

Reminiscences
Of
Helen Louise McAlpine Carskaddon

Old Fresno

I have thought about writing this for several nights and should have gotten up and started this story which may or may not be of interest to anyone.

I was born in a small town, Sterling, Colorado, which was the hub of several railroads. My grandfather, Alexander D. McAlpine , had been the Station Agent for several years but the year before I was born he moved his family to Fresno, California for the health of his youngest daughter, Isabel . My father, Benjamin Alexander, remained in Sterling where in 1907 he brought his bride, Etta Van Pool, from her home in Grangeville, Idaho . They were married on May 22, 1907 and I was born on May 22, 1908 . Six weeks after my birth my father moved us to Fresno to be closer to his family. Shortly after I was born, Isabel died and my grandparents were grieving so I became the spoiled grandchild. I was told that my grandfather carried me upside down when we arrived! I can see why because the dresses were long and very full and mother had made many for me.

Fresno was a very small town. The water tower still stands as a museum on "M" Street. There was a flour mill on "N" Street and a school was downtown. Grandfather lived on Nielson which became Divisadero. He later bought a home on Van Ness just two blocks north of Divisadero. Here he and my grandmother lived out the remainder of their lives. Grandfather had a horse and buggy, a cow, chickens and his dog Coaly. The cow gave more milk than the family could use so he bottled and sold it to neighbors in the block. He was well liked by all and was called "The Mayor of Van Ness Avenue". He never forgot that he was Scotch. He loved to dance the Scottish dances. Put " Turkey in the Straw" on the gramophone and he was up and away. Gaelic was his first language, having learned English when he entered school.

Ben and Etta and their young daughter first lived in a small house right on the Santa Fe Railroad track but soon found a house on Divisadero where they lived while Ben worked for the Fresno Traction Company, running the streetcar from downtown out what is now Tulare Street to the "end of the line" which was out in the country shortly past what became the Fairgrounds. Grandfather bought a grape ranch which years later became the University of California at Fresno . And Ben and family moved on to the ranch. Two horses and a plow did the heavy work. Ben trained the horses to work by voice command rather than by harness. Poor grandfather never could master this (I guess he had to have something to hang on to). After two years Ben decided farming was not making a living and also their only friends were Italian farmers near by! The Coviellos lived across the street and had twelve children (no birth control there) but I must say they all did well in life. Dad told of going over to their ranch for a dinner. It must have been some kind of a celebration, as dinner started around six o'clock and went on all night. Dad started to eat like there was no tomorrow and Rosie whispered to slow down, there was lots more to come! Mother did not go (there was no one to care for me).

Changes began to happen in Fresno . The High School was built, taking up a block on "O" Street, and the Court House took up several blocks because a Park was built around it with a Bandstand where volunteer musicians played every Sunday evening. My Aunts used to take me with them after we went to church on Sunday evening. We would sit on the grass and listen until I went to sleep and then they would take turns carrying me until we got home. I wonder now if they went for the music or were hoping some young men would come and join them. I'm afraid I didn't help the romancing!

A new area was opening up for building houses in the East part of town known as Arlington Heights . It was said to be in the area of the new Normal School that was to be soon built. My dad thought this was the place to build his first home. He borrowed twenty five hundred dollars from his father paying him eight per cent interest. My mother thought this was terrible. The house had two bedrooms and a bath between, a living room and dining room that were almost open between the two, a large kitchen, a back screened porch and a large cellar for storing canned fruit, vegetables and the chicken feed. A large porch ran across the front of the house. The yard was fenced to keep Helen from wandering off. Dad planted fruit trees: apricots, plums, peaches and figs. Grapes were on the fence along with Honeysuckle vine. Chickens were in a separate yard. The house was built on the corner of Third and Washington Street with the house facing south. The address was 3263 Washington . The Normal School was not built in the East end of town but in the North end, and the East end never developed as it had been advertised.

The street car ran out Tulare Street to First Street , so since we did not have a horse and buggy (and could not afford an electric car - A.V. Lisenby had the only one), we walked to the street car which was about seven or eight blocks. Dad road his bicycle to work and once in a while he would carry mother and me both on it all the way to church, which was several miles. What a Man! Dad worked for the Railroad for a few years and then started to work for The Peoples Savings Bank which was owned by Mr. Lisenby . He also worked for The Multicolored Press at night, keeping their books. This was also owned by Mr. Lisenby . The bank was at the north-west corner of Tulare and "I" Streets. Across the corner from the bank was a drug store with an ice cream counter. I loved to go to the bank because Mr. Lisenby always took me over to the drug store for ice cream. Also he would drive his electric car out to our house and take me for a ride! That made my day. His car was so quiet you could hardly hear it. Of course his dog was always along. Across from our house was a large open lot where the men of the neighborhood gathered in the evening or whenever they could and played ball. No one had money to spend very often at a "Picture Show". Entertainment centered around the church and neighbors. I remember mother dressing me in my Sunday dress and she dressing also to go to Mrs. Clark 's house by invitation on Thursday afternoon for Tea. She was always dressed in a lovely black dress serving a real English Tea. She never forgot she was English!

The churches began to build more or less in a group close to town, mostly on "M", "N", and
"L" Streets. The Catholic Church had been built much before all the others. The Priest's home and a school were on the same two blocks. . They are still being used. The Protestant Churches had combined services and lots of what were called "Revival Meetings" with a traveling minister. These meetings were held every night with some said to have people talking in tongues! My father took me to several and I'm afraid it did not increase my faith. I thought they were crazy. My family was very active in the Christian Church which built a large church on the southeast corner of "N" and Tuolumne Streets. Other churches were built within an area of about five blocks. The Christian Church did not have a great many wealthy members so in order to pay for their new church they held Box Suppers about once a month. The men would bid for the prettiest box not knowing who it belonged to. Some way they seemed to find out which belonged to Etta McAlpine and the bidding went high for she was noted for her cooking. Other money-making events were held until the church was finally paid off. By this time, members were finding other means of entertainment and the membership decreased. The McAlpine family for some reason moved their membership to the Baptist Church which had left the grouping in downtown Fresno and built a new church in North Fresno .

Getting back to life on Washington Avenue , Uncle Tom McAlpine built a home on the corner of Second and Washington . I sometimes played with my cousins but much preferred playing with the boys who lived near me. Maurice Robinson Uhler was my special playmate. He was allowed to come to my house for one hour in the morning and I went to his house for one hour in the afternoon. His mother was a very pretty English woman, tall and with blonde hair. His father was short and well built and German. He worked for the City of Fresno and drove a Hupmobile (four cylinders) with a high speed of about twenty miles an hour. Mrs. Uhler was mother's best friend. Time went on and more boys moved into the neighborhood and there were plenty of vacant lots for us to dig in building "houses" which mother was afraid would cave in and bury us all, but we survived. We had no cement sidewalks and the roads were not that great but we used pull an old buggy belonging to Mr. Uhler up Washington Avenue almost to Fourth Street and then ride down to Third. I got to ride most of the time, I guess because I was a girl. Washington had a slight incline so the buggy would roll down without much help.

The first school in Washington Heights was held in a building used on Sundays as a church. The school teacher was a very lovely lady with a happy smile. She rode her bicycle from her home, which was several miles away, to teach in the one room school. Her name was Miss Wallace . One year there were not enough children to keep the school open. Miss Wallace rode by our house and asked mother if I could begin school, not waiting for me to have my sixth birthday. Dad and mother decided it would be a good idea for me to enter first grade rather than stay at home and have no one to play with. (All the boys were older than I by a year or two.) The School was a big old wooden building that looked more like a long barn than a school but it served the purpose. It was located on Ninth and Madison Avenue. One day, just before lunch period, I had my first tooth fall out. Miss Wallace must have had a good laugh when I told her I would not be able to return in the afternoon because my mother would have to take me to the dentist to have my tooth put back in! My parents apparently did not believe in telling children any of the facts of life. Needless to say I returned to school in the afternoon and life went on as usual.

The following year school was moved to a makeshift one room tent type building, wood floors, sides of canvas, no windows. This was done until room could be made at Jefferson School . We did have to go to a Hall used as a Lodge and a dance studio for a short time where we had no playground but were lucky to have a teacher who taught us many folk dances. This was more fun than being outside. Finally the school problem was solved and I went to Jackson School which was southeast of town in a new area being developed. I had to walk about a mile to school and cross Tulare Street . A railroad ran along that street and I used to walk on the ties. I had no one to walk with and one morning a man drove slowly along the road and tried to get me to get in his car. I was frightened but remembered mother had told me not ever to talk or have anything to do with strangers. I was only a block from School so I ran as fast as I could and to my room. My teacher calmed me down. I don't remember her name but I do remember she was very pretty. One day the Principal, Mr. Lyons, came into the room, and she told the class that they were going to be married and she would not be teaching the next year. We all thought that was wonderful!

By this time the Normal School was finished and the Fresno teachers were attending for two years and receiving a teaching certificate. More schools were built to take care of the growing population. The Peoples Savings Bank was purchased by the Bank of Italy which later changed its name to Bank of America. This change was brought about by the First World War. Large department stores were built near the City Park , Gottschalks , which is still a part of Fresno but has moved to a Northern location, Einstein 's much the same as Gottschalks , Kutner Goldsteins carried more household items and had a central cashier who handled all change. The purchased articles and payment were sent by a basket traveling overhead on a wire.

Kutner Goldstein was on I believe the corner of Broadway and Fresno Streets. They decided to close their store, for what reason I do not know, and sold everything in the store at very low prices. My mother bought many small serving plates, cups and saucers which were hand painted. The price was twenty-five cents a piece. I have them in my possession. Parker-Lyons was the largest furniture store until Jewish people began to take over the retail business. Holland 's Grocery Store was the big store for all kinds of grocery items and they had a delivery service which my mother took advantage of for all her staple goods. For fresh fruits and vegetables a Chinese man came in his horse drawn wagon once a week, rang his bell and mother went out to buy what she needed for the week. Every Christmas he brought me Chinese candy. I never could decide whether I liked it or not but it was his big treat for me. Our bread was brought by a breadman once a week. He carried all kinds of "goodies" but mother did not buy those because she made our own. The Iceman came twice a week with a big chunk of ice for our refrigerator. I loved that because he always had a small piece of ice for me to chew on and freeze my fingers in the process.

Fresno was extending from the Southern Pacific Railroad to the west and to the Santa Fe Railroad to the east. Across the railroad to the west was Chinatown where the chinese lived and carried on their business. They had several department stores where they carried beautiful oriental silks and woolen material which my mother sometimes purchased. They also had several restaurants where we sometimes went but always went before dark and got back across the tracks before dark. I was always told that it was not as safe as it looked. A Japanese Doctor built a hospital and gained a very good reputation so that many people went across the tracks to get his opinion. Orientals were not the only ones who lived in this area. There were Russians, Germans and Italians who lived and carried on business here. Further on out to the west were large farms. Kearney Park was also over there. Mr. Kearney had a long driveway from town out to his home. He had planted trees on both sides of the road so that it was shaded all of the way to his property. He built a large home there where he stayed and entertained when he was in Fresno . After his death the property was given to the University of California and was open to the public for picnics.

There were two other Parks in the Fresno area. Roeding Park was on the north western edge of town. It was a large acreage made up of many trees, flowers and lawn. Mr. Roeding had developed it as an experimental garden spot and it became a place where the public could go for picnics or to play ball on the lawn while enjoying the company of family and friends. As time passed a large area was made into tennis courts where County meets were held. Some distance away from the tennis courts were all kinds of play equipment, slides, swings, climbing poles and sand boxes for a children's play area. All kinds of animals were purchased until it became quite the place to go to see nature of every description including many birds. The Park had easy access by several roads which were well cared for. Along one side the Highway to Northern and Southern California ran right next to the Southern Pacific Railroad.

The other Park was actually on the edge of town on the Creek that ran through the farm land and through town at what is now Blackstone and Olive Avenues. It was owned by the Zapp Family who planted trees and lawn by the Creek where the town people went for picnics. My family used to go there with a picnic lunch after church on Sunday. The whole McAlpine family would join in playing ball, chatting, reading and some just relaxing. Mrs. Zapp was quite a horsewoman. She had a beautiful horse which she road in all the Parades in Fresno . She and her daughter were dressed in beautiful outfits with large hats and lots of makeup. Whether it was for a sunscreen or for beauty I never found out, but everyone always looked for them in the Parade.

As the farms developed so did Fresno . The Armenian population increased and it seemed the favorite place for the men to carry on business was in the lobby of the Hotels. More money changed hands there than in the banks. Grapes seemed to be the main crop and they were made into raisins. Some of the farmers got together and formed the Sun Maid Raisin Association and built a large packing house. Some individuals started smaller packing houses. One day was set aside as Raisin Day and the whole town celebrated. A parade was started which developed into a well known celebration in the State. It finally became such an expense that it was no longer held, much to the disappointment of a great many people...

The Town people had built homes near the center of town. On Fresno Street , "P", "Q", "R", "S", and "T" Streets large homes were built and nearby a Hospital which was called the Burnett Sanitarium. This was the only hospital until Dr. Thomas Sample built on which was then way out of town on Wishon Avenue . The County found it was necessary to have a hospital for the migrant workers so one was built in the southeastern part which was not in the city limits at that time but where the city did develop at a later date.

The Normal School drew a large population to the north of town. Many homes were built and finally the main High School was built just two long blocks from the Normal School. It was called Fresno High School.

My family continued to live in Arlington Heights until I was in the third year of College. I rode a bicycle several miles to Washington Junior High School which was not too far from my grandparents' home. (My Dad paid $15 for a used bicycle which I thought was the greatest.) The area where we lived had developed somewhat but not as my father have hoped when he built there. The street car line had put in a bus service just a block away on Mackenzie Avenue which did help the transportation problem. But a new class of people began to move into the area, mostly renting houses which were kept by the owners for income when they moved elsewhere. My mother very much wanted to move nearer to the Normal School which had now become a College. Finally a large home became available and Dad could trade our little house in on it. The new house cost $9,000 and our house was taken in for $2,000. Mother had never worked in her life but now she decided that she wanted to help pay for the new house. We were just three quarters of a block from the College so she decided to room and board girls from out of town. The bedrooms were large so two girls were in each room, making a total of eight girls. She served lunch as well as dinner the first year but found she was spending all of her time in the kitchen so discontinued lunch the next year. The McAlpine House became the place to stay and the waiting list was long.

I must correct myself. I rode the street car to High School after it was completed. I did not want to go to College but was persuaded by a friend of the family to get a degree and then follow my desire to go to Nursing School. My third year I went to College of the Pacific in Stockton, California. That was when Dad wanted to buy the house near the College. I knew he could not afford to buy the house and send me away to College so I went back to Fresno State College to complete my B.A.

Fresno continued to grow to the North toward the San Joaquin River. Large fig orchards had been planted in this area but were now taken over by large homes. Van Ness Avenue was continued for several miles. Large homes were built, pine trees planted along the road which were allowed to grow to a great height. Later this became Christmas Tree Lane with all the trees lighted and homeowners building beautiful displays some of which were animated. For one week this was the place to drive after dark. Christmas carols were sung and Santa Claus greeted all. The speed limit was fifteen miles per hour. It would have been impossible to go fast because of the large crowd. Cars lined up long before dark. Like all places, changes took place. I suppose this can be called Progress. Fresno grew further north to the River and on. Business moved from the old part of town to the Blackstone Avenue area. Fresno as I had known it was no longer.

© Helen Louise McAlpine Carskaddon, 2000


Sponsors:
History Center of San Luis Obispo County
 
DAR, La Cuesta Chapter
 

27 Anonymous
Donors

History Center of
San Luis Obispo County
 
DAR
La Cuesta Chapter